Members in the small ward in which I live have asked me if I want to participate in an autumn "Shi-shi-mai" Lion Dance performance. The 跡の浦 (Ato-no-ura) area is one of four areas who do the Shishi-mai dance at the local main shrine in our village area of our city on November 3. However, Ato-n-ura hasn't participated since 1989.
While I probably won't hold a major role in the performance of our group, I consider it a great opportunity to gain a greater understanding of our community and grassroots Japanese culture.
Most visitors to Japan see only Tokyo, Kyoto, bullet trains and geisha. For me, I am more interested in real people, common people, the kinds of commoners you see in a Hiroshige painting. Normal everyday people like me.
Over the next month, I hope to tell you about these people, the culture, the dance, posting video and pictures.
Tonight, I got off work just before 9 p.m. I drove directly to the Ato-no-ura community building near my house. Some members were already practicing. A couple of the flute players were seated. These were "shukuro" 宿老 or older veterans of the dance who were there to support and teach.
The Shishimai performance consists of several elements which can simply be put into the taiko drummers, the flute players, and the dancers. Among the dancers are the lion-spirit performers (Shishi-mai), other characters such as the Tengu and Otafuku, and various assistants.
Tonight, I practiced the footwork and hand movements for the Shishi-mai. Having watched the local dance, I never paid much attention to the performance, but it is more complicated than it looks.
What makes it more difficult, yet certainly more traditionally significant, is that instruction is done simply by trainees observing older, practiced veterans and copying them. There is nothing written down -- no musical notation, no drum score, no guidebook for dance steps. You must watch, absorb and practice.
They do, however, use a videotape of a previous performance to assist them.
The practice wrapped up around 10:30 p.m. and I sat down for casual snacks and drinks with other members as is ceremonially custom in Japan. Most were driving so they had alcohol-free beer.
Tonight's members were Mr. Takai, same age as me, 42; has three boys, one in high school, one in junior high, one in third grade at my son's elementary school. Mr. Takai works at Autobacs and has been to Disneyworld on a business training trip many years ago.
Mr. Hashimoto: Vice President of the Shishi-mai group, but very laid back. Aged 38. Was instructing me tonight about the Shishi-mai, and practicing his English. Surprisingly, this wasn't annoying at all.
Mr. Sakaji, 39, the son of an established soroban, or abacus, teacher in Shinjo, entertained us with long tale of the pursuit for some special brown eggs.
Mr. Fukumoto, 38, has a daughter in my son's class at school.
Tonight, from our discussion, I learned about the local town land trust, the small shrine near our house, Yamada or Ineda Shrine, and some of the motivation of the men to perform in the dance.
I felt like a door was opening to something deeper about this culture. I am eager for tomorrow night's practice.
